If you are looking to start forging one of the hardest things to acquire is a good anvil, but then when you get one, what about a stand? Here is a really affordable anvil option with an equally affordable anvil stand for any type of anvil. Here is the quick list of what you'll need to get the anvil going.
The measurements are set for a 10.5 inch length of railroad track. You will need to adjust the measurements based on your height, the heigh of the anvil and the type of anvil you need. For example you may need 8 x 24" high 4x4's as opposed to 6 depending on the base of the anvil. So just bare this in mind as you look over this article.
What I saw in my head and then put to paper (actually a graphics program, because I don't draw so well), was the below figure. You can see a side and front view. This was basically what I envisioned to create this anvil stand.
Pics below of the process:
In order to get your anvil height along with the stand, you need to take some measurements first. In order to properly measure what your anvil height should be, I recommend getting a tape measure or some way to mark on a wall where you hand holding a hammer falls normally at your side. Mark on the wall and then measure from the ground to your mark, or if you use a measuring stick to see where your hammer is held will tell you the heigh you need to make your anvil and stand. Next, just measure how high your anvil is. For example, if your hammer at your side measure 34", then your anvil height needs to be 34". So if you measure your anvil height, let's say it is 10", then you need to cut your lengths to 24". Why? Because 34" minus 10" (anvil height) equals 24" 4x4 length.
After cutting the 4x4 to the desired length, the initial gluing starts with three lengths to make two rows (front and back)
Prior to gluing both sides together, I drill the three lengths and added the threaded rod in the center to help stabilize them. Then I glue the two - three lengths together and let that dry. Once dry, I screw the top and bottom center length rods on the front and back.
The glue acts and threaded rod together make the stand in my opinion more stable. Once done with the gluing and threading, I sand the top and bottom of the stand to make sure it is as flush as possible so there is no movement.
After sanding, I take some indoor/outdoor calk, doesn't really matter what kind, it will help deaden the ring. This is not a requirement, but it helps one stabilize the anvil, and keep it quiet. It will not be enough to stabilize the anvil, which is why for this project I use the perforated steel bar. I cut those into 16" pieces and use the lag bolts to secure them and the anvil in on the sides of the stand.
It really is that simple. To do four of them took me two days, one day to do the first. And make sure it was how I wanted, and then day to to complete the other three. So far after testing all four, and having students use them, they are extremely effective anvil stands. Hope this helps you in your journey to blacksmithing and not having to spend a ton of money.
