Anvil Stand Build

If you are looking to start forging one of the hardest things to acquire is a good anvil, but then when you get one, what about a stand?  Here is a really affordable anvil option with an equally affordable anvil stand for any type of anvil.  Here is the quick list of what you'll need to get the anvil going.

The measurements are set for a 10.5 inch length of railroad track.  You will need to adjust the measurements based on your height, the heigh of the anvil and the type of anvil you need.  For example you may need 8 x 24" high 4x4's as opposed to 6 depending on the base of the anvil.  So just bare this in mind as you look over this article.  

What I saw in my head and then put to paper (actually a graphics program, because I don't draw so well), was the below figure.  You can see a side and front view.  This was basically what I envisioned to create this anvil stand.     

Pics below of the process:  

In order to get your anvil height along with the stand, you need to take some measurements first.  In order to properly measure what your anvil height should be, I recommend getting a tape measure or some way to mark on a wall where you hand holding a hammer falls normally at your side.   Mark on the wall and then measure from the ground to your mark, or if you use a measuring stick to see where your hammer is held will tell you the heigh you need to make your anvil and stand.  Next, just measure how high your anvil is.  For example, if your hammer at your side measure 34", then your anvil height needs to be 34".  So if you measure your anvil height, let's say it is 10", then you need to cut your lengths to 24".  Why?  Because 34" minus 10" (anvil height) equals 24" 4x4 length.

After cutting the 4x4 to the desired length, the initial gluing starts with three lengths to make two rows (front and back)

Prior to gluing both sides together, I drill the three lengths and added the threaded rod in the center to help stabilize them.  Then I glue the two - three lengths together and let that dry.  Once dry, I screw the top and bottom center length rods on the front and back.  

The glue acts and threaded rod together make the stand in my opinion more stable. Once done with the gluing and threading, I sand the top and bottom of the stand to make sure it is as flush as possible so there is no movement.

After sanding, I take some indoor/outdoor calk, doesn't really matter what kind, it will help deaden the ring.  This is not a requirement, but it helps one stabilize the anvil, and keep it quiet.  It will not be enough to stabilize the anvil, which is why for this project I use the perforated steel bar.  I cut those into 16" pieces and use the lag bolts to secure them and the anvil in on the sides of the stand.

It really is that simple.  To do four of them took me two days, one day to do the first.  And make sure it was how I wanted, and then day to to complete the other three. So far after testing all four, and having students use them, they are extremely effective anvil stands.  Hope this helps you in your journey to blacksmithing and not having to spend a ton of money. 

Survival Hack for Sawyer Mini and Water Bottle

When I first bought this water bottle, I just was thinking to myself this would be a good water bottle survival kit.  At the time I was helping Jamie Burleigh develop curriculum for his Survival Masterclass.  He came across a great water bottle for the project, which had this taper to it.  I grabbed one of these as an additional option.  They are both plastic 32oz water bottles, and at the end of the day; both had aspects that were useful in addition to just holding water.  The additional one I chose, had this interesting lid, and it immediately jumped out at me with the thought...will the Sawyer Mini fit on the top small mouth.  

When I got home and tried...I was disappointed.  The Sawyer Mini would fit on it, but not well, it would sit cockeyed, it would not seal, the threads were not quite right and the mouth itself was too tall.  My Walmart special with the "metal" cover was not what I had hoped.  I toyed with the idea of cutting it down, and decided not to, I did not want to have something that more work had to be done to.  Eventually I wore off the "metal" cover from all the twisting and messing around with it, and just kind of used the bottle as an everyday bottle.  But for $5.00, it's a worthwhile water bottle.  

This thought had been bothering me for probably two years now, and I wanted it to work.  Not sure why, but I wanted it to have that capability.  After researching other caps, and purchasing some other wide mouth lids with small mouth lids attached and finding the same issue, I decided to get a new bottle and make the modification itself.  Recently, I decided to buy a new one and cut the mouth down.  Needless to say it works, otherwise I would not have written this article.   

Self contained storage

Why this obsession.  I don't really know, I just knew it could work.  I love the idea of having a "survival kit" which stores itself in the bottle, and the Sawyer Mini coupled with this bottle was the base to the kit in my mind.  This is just another option in the endless variations of kit and "survival hacks".

Now, how to do it.  

Simple; I used a bandsaw and just cut about 1/8 off the top of the small mouth.  Once cut, I used a small file to remove some of the cutting, and smooth it out.  I have been thinking of taking the heat gun to it to tighten up all the "loose" plastic.  There really is not, but after a good washing it is just fine to drink with.  If I heat gun the end, I'll make an update to this article.  Below you can see the difference between my old cap on the right and the cut down new one on the left.   

Comparison of cap(L) cut for pairing with Sawyer Mini and cap(R) in original form.

Once you have cut off the piece, you'll see that you are able to screw the Sawyer Mini on to this bottle no issue.  Attach your straw to the Sawyer Mini, and now you and drink straight from the bottle.  This will skip the hassle of collecting the water in the bag and squeezing it into your bottle.  You can still do that if you like, but this is quick water on the go, while using the bottle.  

                        Attach the straw to the sawyer mini                                            Set up to drink straight from bottle

    Drink from the bottle                                    Pour into another container

The only drawback I have found so far is that once you cut the small mouth down, it will leak when you take the sawyer mini off since the cap has it's seal about 1/8 up now not in contact with the mouth.  I am personally ok with that as this bottle is not used daily for carrying water.  This bottle to me is an emergency survival kit which holds not just the sawyer mini but other items as well.  It can be used as just a water kit, you can store water tabs, water bags, possibly two Sawyer Mini's, a mil-bank bag for filtering, however you want to use it.  This is just another option to your preparedness and water treatment arsenal.  Oh and yes, you can boil in it...so long as you get it above a fire to where it won't melt, but the slow heat can still boil in plastic without melting.  Hope this adds to your toolbox, and enjoy the outdoors!